Tuesday, 23 February 2016

Finished Vogue 1465, a Donna Karan jacket



Vogue 1465 is an unlined jacket with princess seams, two-piece sleeves and a shaped front hemline with mitered corners. Wait a minute! If it's unlined, why do I need a meter of lining? Well, for this: 12+ meters of bound seams! 




As I wrote in this post I used a high quality ponte for the jacket and a darker tone Bemberg lining to cut the bias strips for the Hong Kong seam finish. The binding took a while, but I thoroughly enjoyed the process. You could discuss the use of binding ponte seams. It won't fray, or curl, so if you want to cut corners you don't need to finish your seams at all. Yet for me it is taking this pattern from a cardigan to a jacket. It's not just a pretty looking inside, the bound seams add a bit of structure. As a follower on Instagram put it: it helps the fabric to stay authentic in its drape.

This pattern comes with excellent instructions. It's all in the details. The front of the jacket extends into the back collar and the continuous hem is finished with four rows of topstitching.




After doing a test run for the topstitching I basted the hemline first. With four rows of topstitching you can't afford being 1 or 2 mm off or it will immediately show in the spacing between your rows.
Here's another design element that is not only pretty, but also functional. The quilting results in a firm hem that keeps its shape. I've read some reviews of other ponte jackets, like Grainline's Morris, where the shaped hem keeps curling, despite working with a facing. This DK method works like a dream. 




Still sharp after a long day and two train journeys! (Why is it so hard to take pictures of red fabric?) Sorry for the crappy phone pics, but with hail storms going on this will have to do!

When my jacket was finished some unexpected shoulder issues occurred. I had made my usual forward shoulder adjustment, checked the slope angle and everything looked fine. After wearing it for a few hours I noticed some bunching that had not been there before. I checked my fitting books, still no clue. I had a light bulb moment when I studied the pictures. Sometimes they tell a different story than the mirror! When you look at the line drawings the collar follows the line of the princess seams.



Now when I'm moving around my collar moves too, adding up to an inch to the shoulder line! On the hanger the shoulder just drops, on me the extra fabric causes wrinkles on top of the shoulder joint.


I'm not sure if it's an inevitable side effect of the front extending into the back collar, or if adding a smidge at the collar would help. But then I looked at the picture of the original and thought: 'Who am I to outsmart Donna Karan' and from now on it's called a design feature ;)


I should mention the pattern is running large. I usually prefer a tighter fit, but once I started wearing this jacket I didn't want to take it off. So comfortable!

I've been wearing my jacket all weekend. First to have gin and tonic with my youngest daughter, pairing it with straight black jeans.



The next day I joined my other daughter to the ballet in Amsterdam. Changed my pencil skirt for dressy trousers after checking the weather forecast. Sigh.




Don't you love that view from the theater over the river Amstel?

Speaking of ballet: here's a public service announcement! Tonight, February 23 starting at 20.15 hrs CET,  a live stream of Dutch National Ballet performing Mata Hari will be available in 44 countries on Mezzo tv.



You can check this page to see details and repeat broadcast schedules. Well worth watching!

29 comments:

  1. Such an elegant jacket. I love how the topstitching anchors everything in place. And how spot on your topstitching is!

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    1. Thanks, Evie! I forgot to mention my new secret weapon for topstitching.
      Ever since I discovered Schmetz special HAx1 SP 90/14 needles skipping skitches is history, even on the toughest ponte.

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  2. That is a fantastic jacket, and it looks great on you!

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  3. Neat finished! All of them! I like how it tourned out, which confirms my philosophy: it does not matter how easy to complex a project is, it's all about quality! Next time you go to see a ballet give me a shout, I'd love to join :)

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    1. I like your philosophy, Inna. Every project takes as long as it takes without shortcuts!

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  4. Your jacket is gorgeous both inside and out. I have admired this pattern and after seeing yours, I might have to give it a try.

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    1. You'll love it and I'm sure it will look great on you!

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  5. Gorgeous jacket, beautifully finished. Now I want to go buy this pattern!

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    1. What's keeping you? No such thing as too many patterns ;)

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  6. Lovely jacket! The topstitching is a great idea for ponte.

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    1. Yes, it really works! Precision stitching takes some time, but given the over all effect it was worth it.

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  7. Lovely. I don't have this pattern but did buy the Morris - do you think this hem method could be transferred? Too late to watch the ballet now, sadly. I saw your beautiful sewing room in Love Sewing.

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    1. Oi! I presume it could be transferred, but adding the seam allowances outwards and including mitered corners with different angles for collar and hem may be a little bit of a conundrum.

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  8. Lovely. I don't have this pattern but did buy the Morris - do you think this hem method could be transferred? Too late to watch the ballet now, sadly. I saw your beautiful sewing room in Love Sewing.

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    1. Exciting! I can't wait to see the magazine :)

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  9. This jacket is so lovely and I can see that it would suit my lifestyle for this coming winter. I love how you can wear it for several different occasions. Your sewing is impeccable Marianne and you inspire me to go that extra mile to finish my garments beautifully.

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    1. It's really versatile, it looks nice on a pencil skirt too. My only regret is I couldn't find a nicer reversible fabric!

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  10. Looks stunning Marianne, and so do you. I have read about using multiple rows of topstitching on knits to avoid stretching, so interesting to see this was the suggested technique. Love the binding inside - the jacket looks finished, and that would be so nice to look at ...I know we are the only ones that see inside, and this is the reason, I think, that nice finishes inside are important in better garments.

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    1. I agree it's nice to have pretty looking insides but in this case I'm convinced the binding effects the outside as well. Win-win!

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  11. This is a beautiful jacket inside and out. The top stitching is a lovely detail too.

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    1. Thanks, Jean. Spent long hours peering through my reading glasses ;)

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  12. The inside of your jacket is as beautiful as the outside. Comfortable and chic, versatile, too! Coco C. would definitely approve.

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    1. Haha, that's too much praise for a ponte jacket. This design deserves to be made from a more luxurious fabric, I'm sure Coco C would agree ;) Alison Smith was working on a version in boiled wool with some stretch. So far she only posted some details on Instagram, hoping to see her modeling her finished suit as well!

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  13. Very stylish indeed. Lovely colour on you!

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  14. I agree that it the colour of this jacket with your own deep colouring that makes it work so beautifully. Also the shape is very becoming. It just works perfectly with trousers for a grown up but not too dressy occasion. Super work.

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  15. Wonderful deep color! It's just right for you. This jacket makes you so unique.

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  16. Hi Marianne,
    Thanks for your visit and lovely comment on my blog, I really appreciate it! Your jacket turned out quite spectacular and I REALLY love the color. You did a marvelous job and the inside of the jacket looks polished and well made, along with the mitered corners/top-stitching.
    I'm now following your blog (on Bloglovin) and already noticed you're making a French jacket! Your trim looks absolutely breathtaking! I've made two and have another two jackets planned for some time in the future ;)
    Hugs from Portugal,

    Tany

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    1. Hi Tany, nice to see you over here! I found your blog some time ago when I was googling to see if anyone had used Susan Khalje's video to make a French jacket. Your beautiful jacket was one of the reasons I picked up my WIP again. Thanks for your comment on V 1465, I love the colour, but when I saw yours I immediately wondered why I didn't make it in blue, it's so pretty!

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